Magical Sevilla
Sevilla is the gem of southern Spain. The charming capital of Andalusia, is known for its colorful architecture, quaint cobbled streets, flamenco dancing, good food, and a hot climate. We recommend staying for at least 4-5 days to really soak it all in. We picked out some must-visit sites in Sevilla, and spent the rest of our time wandering. The key to exploring Sevilla is giving in to getting lost in the labyrinth of alleyways. You’ll be sure to find cute shops, beautiful artwork, fun restaurants, and charming scenery.
How to Get to Sevilla
Sevilla, also known as Seville, is located in the southern part of Spain, close to Málaga and Gibraltar. It’s also not far from the western border, so many people reach Sevilla after traveling the southern coast of Portugal. There’s a direct bus from Faro, Portugal, which takes 2h40. We came from Madrid via a gorgeous 2h45 train ride. You can also travel via bus, but it takes about 6 hours.
As always, we recommend using Rome2Rio.com, which will help you come up with the quickest, cheapest, or most convenient route from A to B.
Estacion de Sevilla-Santa Justa is the main train station, just east of downtown. It’s very easy to walk to, but there are also reasonable taxis/Ubers if you don’t want to walk. It really isn’t far though.
The train station also hosts a whole fleet of rental car companies, which is convenient for excursions or road trips. We rented a car from Goldcar at the train station to take a day trip to Cadiz, but we’ll get to that.
Where to Stay
Most of the attractions in Sevilla are located around the city center. Luckily, there are plenty of options to stay nearby. We picked a perfect hostel in the “Santa Cruz” neighborhood, a.k.a. the Jewish Quarter.
One Hostel Cathedral
This charming hostel is the quintessential backpacking Spain experience. It’s right around the corner from Catedral de Sevilla and Royal Alcazar Palace. The two-part hostel occupies both sides of a quiet street, smack in the middle of the magical labyrinth of downtown. The hostel’s old architecture gives it an authentic, homey feeling. They often host cheap hostel dinners, too. The staff are super friendly staff and helpful with planning activities. They have extensive knowledge of local events, and they organize bar hops and tours every week! Plus, they have a rooftop terrace. And you know how we feel about rooftops.
What to Do
We spent just shy of a week in Sevilla, packing each day FULL of actives, and we still didn’t get to everything! There is so, soooo much to do here. Interestingly, the city is home to 3 different UNESCO world heritage sites: the Catedral de Sevilla, the Alcázar Palace, and the General Archive of the Indies.
Even if you’re not an itinerary kind of traveller, there are so many opportunities for spontaneity here. And if you are an itinerary kind of traveller, here are some great activities to pack your days with:
Catedral de Sevilla
The Seville Cathedral is the largest cathedral in the world - not including the churches of St. Peter's Basilica and the Basilica of the National Shrine of the Immaculate Conception, because they are not the seats of bishops. The Cathedral lays in the heart of Sevilla, and attracts a ton of visitors every day. It’s always best to plan your visit and book your tickets before you arrive. We didn’t get the chance to tour the inside, but we walked around it every day. It’s a gorgeous architectural masterpiece, and it’s hard to miss when you’re in Sevilla!
Royal Alcazar de Sevilla
The Alcazar Palace has been one of our highlights throughout all of Europe. There are so many unique design aspects of the palace, and it would take more than just one visit to discover them all. The palace took over 500 years of construction, granting it a variety inspiration and design styles. Some of the most notable features include the colorful, eclectic tiles; the grandiose foyers, halls, and courtyards; the unique, luxurious archways and columns; the lavish pools; and the peaceful, expansive gardens.
While some sections of the palace are more famous than others, you’ll feel inspired in each and every part of the palace you explore. Some of the best spots include the entrance gate (Puerta del Leon), the Patio de las Doncellas courtyard (the famous pool courtyard), the Baños Doña María de Padilla (underground , the Galeria de Los Grotescos, and the Alcazar gardens.
P.S. For all you Game of Thrones fans, the Alcazar Palace is the filming location for Dorne. Yep, it exists. And you can go there ;)
Archivo de Indias
The Archivo de Indias, according to Wikipedia, is "the repository of extremely valuable archival documents illustrating the history of the Spanish Empire in the Americas and the Philippines.” The beautiful building is right across the square from the Catedral de Sevilla. Unfortunately, we didn’t get the chance to visit, but wish we could’ve. Definitely on the list for next time!
Plaza de España
The Plaza de España is a gorgeous, expansive public square showcasing unique architecture and outdoor design. The park is dominated by the huge half-circle of continuous buildings on the east side of the square.
Most of them are now government buildings, but you can still walk around the balconies and walkways. There are many alcoves decorated with beautiful tile work, so definitely make sure to explore the buildings up close. We were lucky enough to witness a spontaneous flamenco performance in one of the entry halls!
The plaza is designed with a moat running along the same length of the buildings, creating a gorgeous networks of bridges and platforms to connect the outer pathways to the rest of the park.
The Plaza de España is actually part of a larger park called the Parque de María Louisa. It’s a lovely, calm place to walk around during the day. The big green trees offer some relief from the midday sun, and there are plenty of fountain pools to dip your toes in.
Alameda de Hercules
Alameda de Hercules is a pedestrian-only street famous for its poplar trees and fountains. The beautiful promenade is home to a lot of popular tapas restaurants, and a poppin’ nightlife - specifically gay bars and all-night clubs. We managed to catch the last few hours of Gay Pride, and it was amazing.
Walls of Sevilla
The Walls of Sevilla were defense walls built around the old city during the Roman Empire. Most of them have been knocked down, but sections still remain in various parts of the city. We wandered up to north section running along the main road of Calle Resolana, not far from Alameda de Hercules.
Las Setas de Sevilla
Las Setas, translated as “the mushrooms,” and otherwise known as the Metropol Parasol, is supposedly the largest wooden structure in the world. The massive mushrooms are said to have been inspired by the vaults of the Catedral de Sevilla, and offer cool shade to the park below. Interestingly, the monument also hosts remains from Roman and Moorish times, which they unearthed during construction of the structure. For a small entrance fee, you can take an elevator up to the catwalks and wander the tops of the mushrooms, overlooking the city beyond. Plus, they have a restaurant cafe on the upper level. We recommend visiting for sunset, and sharing a pitcher of sangria!
Museo del Baile Flamenco
You absolutely CAN NOT visit Sevilla without seeing a flamenco show! This flamenco museum is a great way to learn about the traditional dance, or book a ticket to see a lively show yourself! The museum hosts Spain’s most exclusive flamenco show in the buildings old vaults, creating an intimate and dramatic atmosphere for the thrilling show. The costumes and music will fill you with joy and make you want to move. At the very least, it’ll put a smile on your face, or even a tear to your eyes.
You need to book tickets ahead of time. We recommend calling or visiting as soon as you arrive in Sevilla, because they don’t host shows every single night. You’ll want to make sure you can get tickets before they sell out all the nights you’re in town.
Wander the streets! Eat tapas!
An obvious, but necessary activity! So much of the wonder of Sevilla is found in her streets, stores, and eateries. There are countless unnamed spots and moments sprinkled around the city for you to discover. Just head out, get lost, and follow your intuition.
Where to Eat and Drink
There’s no such thing as “too many tapas,” so dig in! The beauty of the snack-sized dishes is that you can just keep trying more and more. Sevilla is home to so many hidden gems, so you better start eating. Keep reading for some of our favorite spots, both day and night, we were lucky to stumble into.
Downtown area
Hotel Dona Maria - rooftop bar in a hotel with a great view of Catedral de Sevilla. Perfect for pre drinks, but it is a bit $$. Dress well!
Garlochi - eclectic religious decor with a kooky fun owner/bartender guy??? Here’s a quote direct from the Lonely Planet: "There are few weirder places to drink than this baroque temple of kitsch. Decked out in ultra-camp religious decor, it's dedicated entirely to the iconography, smells and sounds of the Semana Santa (Holy Week). To get in the mood, try the signature cocktail, a Sangre de Cristo (Blood of Christ), made from grenadine, sparkling wine and whisky.”
El 3 de Oro - local tapas restaurant with good sangria and outdoor seating.
La Taraceina - this is surely a bucket-list type restaurant. They’re known for their incredible paella. Let me say that again - I N C R E D I B L E paella. It is a very popular place, so you absolutely need to make a reservation. Plus, if you’re having the paella, you need to let them know ahead of time. They start preparing at 2pm, so they don’t take reservation after that.
Salt & Sugar - cute local bakery for early morning breakfast pastries.
Bar Alfalfa - famous local tapas bar with an unmistakeable “flatiron style” storefront. Think: cured meat hanging from the ceiling, liquor bottles stacked on shelves, and window-facing hightop tables. Plus, tasty tasty tapas.
Bodega Santa Cruz - lively, local tapas bar. Salt of the earth kind of place, with good food and good wine. Right downtown. We went multiple times, and it’s always busy - but that’s a good thing!
Castizo - a bit more upscale tapas bar with creative dishes and fun decor!
Patio San Eloy - traditionally decorated tapas bar.
Filo - cheap and cheerful take out or sit-in. Yummy sandwiches and salads - great for lunch!
Arte y Sabor - a community art tapas restaurant with great outdoor seating on Alameda de Hercules.
Los Remedios
Los Remedios is the district across the river, with a bit of a more modern street architecture style. The neighborhood is a bit more residential, making the nightlife a little different and fun! It’s a bit of a walk from downtown, but it’s well worth spending a night on the other side of town. Plus, the walk across the bridge at night is beautiful. If anything, it’s worth it just to go to Casa Anselma!
Casa Anselma - easily the highlight of our week in Sevilla. This warm, lively bar is always packed and pulsing with rhythm. The authentic local flamenco bar draws locals and travelers alike. The casual, spontaneous atmosphere makes you want to stay all night. There are usually a few regulars that play flamenco music, and perhaps a few pro dancers in the mix as well. But you’re just as welcome to hop on up and dance around with them! There’s no judgement here, just a good time.
Baroness Bar - hip, young, local hot spot with pretty plants and interior decor. Plus, they have hookah!
Phoenix - good sized Irish pub with beers on tap and hearty food. Great place to catch a sports game!
Puerto de Cuba - hello riverside outdoor night club. Expect party music, cocktails, and shimmering lights on the river.
Day Trip to Cadiz
Cadiz, the old port city on the southwestern coast of Spain, is a beach paradise. The drive from Sevilla is about an hour and a half, so you can easily make a day trip out of it. Although, we would’ve loved to spend a long weekend there. We rented a car from the train station in Sevilla, but you can also check out ride-share options. BlahBlah is a popular one in Spain.
Cadiz is one of the longest inhabited cities of Western Europe, and being that it’s located on a small island, there’s ocean in every direction you look. There are loads of historical landmarks and plazas to explore, but you bet we booked it straight to the beach.
La Caleta beach
Las Caleta beach is a popular spot for locals and visitors. The bay hosts a big family of little boats, and the beach has a perfect view of the Castillo de Santa Catalina - remains of the ancient walled castle/city.
Gracias!
So that’s everything we explored in Sevilla. Did we get to everything? No way. Are we going back? Absolutely. Even just for the tapas. And the flamenco.